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  • malindaxu's Avatar
    started a topic lighten your work arena

    lighten your work arena

    Thanks to its ultimate uniqueness of blend with other styles, you can lighten and brighten your work arena by making little changes to your work arena. It can be rightly said that buying the white furniture range is like the great investment for you. Use of this kind of furniture can also save a huge amount of your valuable money that you will be spend on lighting. Due to its high reflective index, the white furniture makes a latest fashion statement among the furniture stores across the world.

    After having so many qualities, white furniture is undoubtedly the number one choice for your office and home needs. The antique and vintage style gives a royal touch to your place and can refresh your office or home look in the most elegant way. You can also customize it according to your taste and class.

    Website: http://www.melodyhome.com/article/home-furniture/tips-of-buying-chinese-antique-furniture-2350/
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  • Grow your plants inside under lamps
  • dutch's Avatar
    started a topic lighting


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  • The best place to learn how to grow marijuana
  • Kusharella's Avatar
    replied to lighting
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  • The final steps, discuss your tips and tricks to getting your marijuana ready for smoke
  • OK, 1st DRYING: once all trimmed, using a Net 4 level hanging dryer 18" Diameter, place the Best Trimmed Buds in top drying net's compartment (I use zipper type so as to close each section), 2nd from the top I place the Small Trimmed Buds in this compartment & zip close, 3rd I place sugar leaves and non-trimmed tiny buds that I use my thumb & pointer finger by sliding from the stalk to the branch end then toss both sugar leaf trimmings and tiny buds in 3rd compartment, zip close. In the bottom 4th compartment I place "Painter's 2-3 mill plastic" to cover the bottom and up the sides using 4-6 short piceses of Duct Tape to hold up edges. I use up to 10 of these drying nets. I weight each one a write its weight on a papers then toss it in bottom net (Digital Hanging Scale, like a Luggage Scale but better quality not more than 5-10 bucks in higher costs for the better ones). Hang in secure, dark, 70 degree, vented to some extent for air movement. Now every 8 hours, check them, feel them, smell them, every time and manipulate if needed, weigh and write it down on the paper. Once dry (a very very slight moist dry, check by touch and smell) place the Best Buds in a jar and Small buds another jar, in a Quality Quart Storage Jar(s) with flat metal top/rubber edge on jar top, and metal screw band to seal jar(s). Next, On the 3 compartment contents lightly rub your hand in a circular motion causing the tricombs to fall away from sugar leafs and tiny buds through the netting onto the plastic below. Continue to do this every 4 hours for a day, maybe 2. Remove #4 contents in the plastic by gathering up the edges, place rubber band over top to hold together then remove, and then you can place this contents in one of the jars.

    CURE for 3-4 days: Weigh each jar with contents each day and write it on those papers. Every 4 hours (It must be done every 4 hours "Burp" the jar ( gently roll jar, open "Burping" then close jar) ) Burp and write the time(s) done. On day 2-3 smell for possible mold, in any trace mold odor place that Jars contents back on drying net for 4-8-12 hours (check by smell and touch as stated above). Check the Bud's tricombs to be a slight light gold color when cured.

    NOW: leave Jar(s) sealed for 1 week then Burp each Jar 2 times. Once after 7 days, then 4 hours after that initial 7 day Burp. Do final tare weight for contents weight, write it down, and place jar(s) in a cardboard box with paper to secure movement and store in dark 65-70 degree area until your product is saleable for TOP-DOLLAR. You will have fresh top quality product just as though you just harvested and prepared it for sale/use.....
    If others know better way(s), please teach us all. This is one Medical Grade Grower process,
    God-Bless & Enjoy... ... ... ... ... ... :-)
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  • curing time and mold,can I leave these in jars or.....?

    I just finished my first harvest.Let my buds hang for a bout a week at 65 degrees.They dried up to the point of stems snapping so I threw them in jars.I used this site pretty much the whole grow and I gotta say it was a biiig help!!I got 15 oz of 4 plants for my first time and not bad stuff either!!...anyway it's been about a week and a half in these jars and wanna cure properly.How long can I leave them in jars without getting mold?I was told I should freeze but that seems bad to me.Any help is appreciated,thanx!
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  • Chester's Avatar
    started a topic Supercloset superflower grow box

    Supercloset superflower grow box

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  • dutch's Avatar
    replied to Supercloset superflower grow box
    Chester.............. how did the Superflower Grow Box work out?
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  • Growing in anything but soil.
  • costigan's Avatar
    started a topic My Super Grow Room

    My Super Grow Room

    This is my Grow room

    im runnin x5 600watt super novas with there own air intake..ive got a c02 annalyzer that monitors the air with a infared sensor
    ( the blueball in the pics) that adds co2 to the air when levels drop below 1500ppms.... also i got two temp controls one is connected to the co2 ... so that while dosin all air outlets get turned off ... so the plants can get optium c02 uptake ....the other tempt control is connected to the air intake so it can keep the temp to my desired level also connected to this is a lil fan heater so if the levels drop to low it can heat up the room .... this comes in handy in winter so i never have to worry ... ive got 2 carbon filters with fans .... one big air intake ..... my growin system is a ebb 50 pot hydroponic setup ... with a growin medium of clay pebals connected to a 300 litre water butt ....inside the water butt i have got a air pump and nutriant tank heater to keep my nutraints to my desired temp ... i have even seperated a corner for my veg and clone room ... in this i have got a 120 site aeroponic propegator with a mini heated propegator for germinatin .... the nutraints i use are cannadian xpress professonal ... there the only 6part nutriants on the market a lil bit of hardwork but worth it .... i also use a ec meter and ph stick so i never add to many salts to my water .... also i have got 3 fan controlers so it keeps the fans runnin as quite as possible...

    this set up cost me 6500 pound thats 13 000 usa dollars ... ive always wanted to grow my own vegstables so when i got the money i bought the farrari of all set ups hope u like it
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  • hindsight's Avatar
    replied to My Super Grow Room
    Wow, I am impressed to say the least. My philosaphy is some what like yours. I was bitten by the grow bug many years ago and experimented with a pyraponic unit which was a new way to grow plants back in thoses days. I took a chance and bought one set it up and started growing and clonning. To me it was a new way to grow and quickly too, but the issue of smell was not known to me, and was also the end of my new found hobby to. Growing 24/7 is fantastic but when it comes to budding, well my seed was a afgan clonned so a week into the budding stage my wife gets hit with the smell and like a bloodhound who's got the smell of blood, she goes straight to it regarless of the camofloge. Now we are talking about a grow medium that looks like a gaint hanging plant vase, beautiful in its own right, but lacking in many things SUCH AS CARBON FILTERS, which are a must. My wife is as straight as they come and thank GOD for that. But after I pulled out the plants they would stick to my hand because of the resin, that broke my heart but strengthen my resolve to one day grow again and here it is with the perfect location, and all to myself and super private, only me and the owner know whats up and it is going to stay that way. And thanks to Dutch my dream is coming about, GOD put all things in place for us, all we have to do is take advantage of it. I'll keep in touch and would love to hear your progress. You have all the right stuff(equipment). Good luck
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  • Discussion of Lighting, Cooling, and Ventilation of a marijuana grow room.
  • greengardener's Avatar
    replied to Supercloset superflower grow box
    I just ordered the LED Trinity 3.0 from super closets and i plan on keeping a journal that i will post once i get started. I plan on starting the grow in early july.
    From the reasearch i've done the super closets are the best closet grow on the market, thats why i bought it. Stay tuned for journals and pics
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  • greengardener's Avatar
    replied to Welcome New Members!
    Hi all, just wanted to introduce myself as the "greengardener". First time grower, long time toker After much research i finally went ahead today and bought the LED Trinity 3.0 grow closet from supercloset, and ordered my feminized seeds. The closet, i"m told should arrive in about 20 days or so. I plan to keep a fairly detailed journal with photos and video that will be posted as soon as i get growing. The strains I've chosen are 1.Aurora Indica, a cross between Northern lights and Afghan. 2. White Widow 3. Bubblelicious & 4. Master Kush. I've got HIGH hopes for this grow closet, I'm gonna put it to work and i'll keep you all posted on my results. Wish me luck and send out good vibes
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  • louis008's Avatar
    started a topic Welcome New Members!

    Welcome New Members!

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  • swcauto's Avatar
    replied to Welcome New Members!
    hi all, rumor I heard for sexing plants was to put them in the dark for a couple of days(were talking about outdoor plants). Is this true? If not, what's the best way? thanks, swcauto
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  • From baby to smoke, show your plants off
  • Erikthe9reat's Avatar
    started a topic Erikthe9reat's Grow Log

    Erikthe9reat's Grow Log

    I will be posting pix of my grow. My setup is a 2 x4x4 tent with a 420 indagro induction light. I veg with a 250 hps in a seprate closet. The tent has a tower oscillation fan and a canfilter with the 4 inch hydrofarm exhaust fan. I ordered my seedx from buy dutch seeds. I have 2 blue mystic,1 blackjack and the bds special which is ice x supergirl. I call her emma frost. Ill post pix 2 morrow. I also have sone white widow a few weeks n2 veg and a snow white, deathstar,cali mist lemon, NYC diesel i got from a buddy that are half dead( ill save them. I have 10 woody haze clones n the cloner.
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  • Erikthe9reat's Avatar
    replied to Considering A Funguy Grow
    What do u need to know. Its actually pretty easy.
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  • Everything but marijuana, discuss LSD, mushrooms etc.
  • Jimmy's Avatar
    started a topic Considering A Funguy Grow

    Considering A Funguy Grow

    I live in the states and was curious about getting some advise from more knowledgable ppl. I'm looking for a good producer so I can get me an my lady some nice potent boomers for our personal and spiritual needs. I am just starting to do research so any help would be amazing.
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  • aimiehalo's Avatar
    started a topic New Grower Needing Advice

    New Grower Needing Advice

    I will be growing indoors and wondered what you would recommend---soil or a potting mixture?

    Also, what lights do you recommend for the best growing conditions.

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  • Information on different strains
  • A How to from Mane**(How To order seeds the best way)**

    I've been seeing alot of threads on How do I place an order?
    Do I use my Real Name?
    Who should I ship to and can I use a fake address?

    Well by demand I'll throw out a good method.(For use with US and other contraband Countries)

    First you need to find a reputable Seedbank.. This ? is asked too much but is one I'm always happy to answer.

    I'll throw out some one's for ya'll to go look at. I've never had problems with these sites. But still look around and judge for yourself on the following.

    The Attitude Cannabis Seeds Marijuana Seeds

    Next is whatever seedbank you choose set a limit on how much to spend per order. Mines never goes over 150 in one order, I had to spilt my recent order up. Doesn't tho matter 20 free more seeds for me.

    Remember all the seedbanks are out of the country and might and could just take $ and say fuck it.
    Hence I warn big orders from any seedbank is risky business.

    Cash and Money orders not on my top list to be ordering seeds. Now money orders can be traced when done right etc.
    You really cant do shit if the seedbank says "oh we didn't receive payment" and you just out back.

    Now debit and credit cards are another story.. The merchant gets paid within the hour no problem, and can't say oh we didnt get it.
    This is probably the fastest way of paying for seeds.
    Don't think for a second that the charge will say "Mj Purchase" the merchants use a code named merchant kinda like porn.
    Please don't feel scared to use a card to pay for them.
    I don't know why the AM Ex cards aren't working overseas now, but if you like to take precautions then just get the prepaid visa but make sure it can be used outside the States.
    Now if you decide to spent like $300+ on one order be careful please real talk.

    You have a couple options on this;
    One you can use your real name..
    Do I? No I use a good ole normal name like James Bank etc. I just dont like shit like that coming in my name.
    Please don't go crazy and use some crazy name... Use something like the HS jocks name or some teller at the banks name. A common name.

    Now if you have the option of shipping to a friends house do so if you want to be on the extra safe side. I have and had no problems yet.

    Don't order like 80 seeds in one order break it down like 20 per order.
    Less chance of losing more $ if seized. I know you want to stock up and might not have to order for a while..
    Yea shipping might be more but isnt that something you are willing to pay for a better chance of getting them?

    Now I've been hearing alot of can I ship to my neighbors? My answer is NO.
    If the neighbor saw you in their mail thats a felony all they have to say is you opened their mail.
    Dont be scared to ship to ya crib.

    Shipping Times;
    The seedbanks I order from say about 7-30days or so to the States.
    I hear this 3day to the west coast, but never seen it.
    The quickest I've ever gotten seeds in Michigan and Georgia is 6days min, but 7-8 is more like it for me.
    The latest I had a seed order come was a lil over a month but came so I was happy. Heated but glad they came.
    So if you US start looking for the package about 3-5 days after it ships but expect about 7 if no problems arise.
    This is the hardest part if impatient.

    All out of country items through the post go thru customs...
    Now there is a chance your order might be opened.. or just passed right along.
    I had recently had my WW from the doc opened and wasn't seized keet moving. Only ten seeds. Customs never even touched the seed because the way it was packaged it was undisturbed the breeder pack was bent tho. So now do you want to have your order opened with 50seeds or 10 seeds?

    If seized you get a letter from customs saying that a package mailed to you had contraband in it and if you wanted them back come get them or will be destroyed.
    Like the seeds, destroy the letter and keep it moving.
    If you never see a letter then theres hope but after a certain time either the package was lost(which happens) or never sent at all.

    Now the repercussions of ordering seeds is noting... unless you ordered like 200seeds which I doubt you will do anyway right?.
    People on here said Homeland came to their house over some seeds, doubt it. They got better shit to do.

    I've personally never had my seeds lost or seized so its a good sign that small orders are best

    Next thing after ordering in my opinion is to spark up a Blunt/Bowl/Bong/Can w/e your smoking tool is and get high as a bitch to take your mind off of it.
    You can't worry.. That will kill you.
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  • I recommend buy dutch seeds. Ive ordered from them twice right from my credit card. They take 2 weeks 2 get here. I got the bds special, blue mystic and blackjack. They are the only bank i deal with.
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  • Early Seed Reviews (Nirvana NL, B. Cheese, Moby Dick, Super Skunk, White Berry, etc)

    Just some early reviews on an assortment of seeds I started. 4 weeks in thus far.

    The main purpose of this thread is to make sure other members are aware of issues with one particular stain. That being Sensi Super Skunk. ALL 10 of these failed at one point or the other during the 1st 2 weeks. The seeds were white and small and I had a feeling they were not going to be good and my hunch was right.

    Mind you, nearly ALL other seeds I started with are doing just fine. Some better than others, but all germinated and are steadily growing (aside from 2).

    I'd say Moby Dick and White Berry are by far looking the best. Nirvana NL and the Bubble Cheese are also looking quite good. Basically they are all going just fine, other than the S.S.S.

    35 seeds growing strong and 12 dead ones. I started with a lot, because I expected a many of them to not make it this far, BUT 10 of the 12 dead ones are the Sensi Super Skunk. So save your money. I only wish someone had posted something like this prior to my purchasing them.

    BTW "The Attitude's" only solution to this is to offer me 10% off my "next" order. But hey, they already give a 10% discount with a 420 code, so no real compensation from them on this.

    Oh well.. just sharing my experience with this particular strain.
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  • curing time and mold,can I leave these in jars or.....?

    I just finished my first harvest.Let my buds hang for a bout a week at 65 degrees.They dried up to the point of stems snapping so I threw them in jars.I used this site pretty much the whole grow and I gotta say it was a biiig help!!I got 15 oz of 4 plants for my first time and not bad stuff either!!...anyway it's been about a week and a half in these jars and wanna cure properly.How long can I leave them in jars without getting mold?I was told I should freeze but that seems bad to me.Any help is appreciated,thanx!
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  • Ganjaluvrs Drying & Curing Broken Down into Understandable English

    Yup, people make things harder then they really are sometimes... even I myself am guilty of this. It happens! But.. what I have done for everyone.. is broken down the drying and curing process.. to where even the NOOBS can understand how to properly dry.. and cure their pride and loved harvest.

    Alright, as for drying... this is probably the easy part compared to the curing process.. but again.. even curing isn't that difficult.

    On the day of your harvest... you need to do the following: Hang your buds up.. with some type of string/thread or even fishing line will work. Hang them up.. and ONLY let them dry.. until ONLY the outer sides of the buds feel dry.. AND.. the stem BENDS (might even crack some and thats okay) but doesn't BREAK. (if the stem breaks in two when bent.. you have "over dried" the buds.. or in other words.. you have let out too much if not all of the buds moisture content.. and its pretty much too late now.. it can be fixed.. but its a pain in the ass.. and no matter if it gets fixed or not.. the final product will NOT taste/smell/smoke like it would have if done properly.)

    You don't want to wait until the stem breaks. Why? well, because by this time.. you have waited too long.. and the buds water content has dropped way to low in percentage by this time (possible to 0%). When air drying.. you want to wait until the outer part of the bud feels dry.. and the stem bends.. but doesn't break. Then you can start your curing.

    Once the outer side of the buds are dry.. and the stems BEND but doesn't BREAK into two pieces.. this is the optimal time to start the "curing process".

    Now, let me explain some things to everyone.

    you need to be careful with what information you chose to read and follow. Why? Because the internet is filled with all kinds of information.. good and bad.. not only good and bad.. but some of it is correct.. but.. some of it is also incorrect. In fact, 70% of the material you read on the internet about growing cannabis.. is actually incorrect. Why so much incorrect info? Well, its sad to say.. but 70% of the information (articles) you read about growing cannabis.. is incorrect because its mostly written by young immature teenagers that "think" they know it all.. but in fact they don't know what they're talking about. It's true! If you want some correct and GOOD information on growing.. check out hightimes magazine or just simply go and buy yourself a few books on growing... that way you know the information is at least %99 if not %100 correct because its generally written by experts (people that actually KNOW what the hell they're talking about).

    The curing process runs on the same principles as your plants light cycles. You cure in cycles.. once the outer edges of the bud is dry.. and the stem bends but doesn't break.. and you have put your buds into your jars and have the lids on.. wait 12 hours until you open the lids of the jars. During this 12 hours.. the moisture from inside the middle of the buds has slowly made its way (evaporated) out of the bud.. but has no way to escape because the lids are still on the jars thus trapping in all that moisture. The evaporating moisture also makes a rise in the humidity inside the jars.. and since its still trapped inside the jars.. it rehydrates the buds to a certain point. Finally, after the first 12 hours of having the lids on.. take the lids off. The buds should feel a little damp again (but not too wet.. if they feel like a fresh harvested bud.. then you need to air dry them for a few more days.. also if they didn't re-hydrate then you've let them air dry too long.) After inspecting the buds to make sure they got a little re-hydrated from being in the jar for 12 hours.. just leave the lid(s) off of your jar(s) for a good 2 to 4 hours to let the fresh moisture on the buds evaporate.. then put the lids back on.. and repeat the cycle. See how its kinda like the light cycle? Like that one would be 12hrs/2hrs or 12hrs/4hrs. See how that works now?

    Each time you put the lid on.. the humidity inside the jar(s) will slowly evaporate the moisture from inside the middle of the bud as well as the stem thats inside the middle of the bud... thus raising the humidity level inside the jar like I said before... then each time you take the lid off.. your letting that new evaporated moisture from the middle of the bud.. and the stem thats in the middle of the bud.. evaporate. So, see.. each cycle of lid on/lid off which is one complete cycle.. your taking out the moisture bit by bit.. from inside the middle of the bud (and the stem thats inside the middle of the bud).

    Now.. you don't want to just keep on repeating cycles until the buds are 100% dry. You want to leave around 10% to 15% water content inside the middle of the buds.. once they get to around that level of water content.. you can then put them back into their jar(s) and store them without having to worry about "burping" the jars. Also, at this point.. the buds are not only smokable.. but they will smell and taste like they should!

    There ya go.. hopefully I have broken this down so that the ones that don't understand.. now understand. (if you still don't get it, you probably never will.. and IMO.. you should change professions... because growing isn't for you)
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  • Waterfarm: Waterpump same as recirculation upgrade?

    I am going to be running a waterfarm 8-pack on an uneven table that was built to drain in one direction. It's not an extreme slope, only noticeable if you spill water or set things on it. I have been staring at it for a bit, and was wondering if I hooked a waterpump onto the controller outline if it would compensate for the slope but most importantly if adding the waterpump would be the same as the $30 recirculation upgrade. Thanks for the help.
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  • Newly setting up Hydro grow, need some experienced advice!

    I want to start by saying when it comes to hydroponics, I know absolutely nothing. I know the simple function of the system, how it works, but I have no idea what is needed to get it started. That is why I am here.

    Id like some people with experience with DIY projects to help me out by letting me know if I have missed anything in my plans and also by answering some questions I have about hydro grows.

    1. I am going to create an ebb and flow, i believe, system out of 2x rubbermaid containers - one fits the top and leaves a huge "gap" between the two bottoms which would be my reservoir .

    2. I have the water pump installed and run up into the top bin (the roots bin) on a 30 on 30 off cycle. (The time is not important now, i am NOTTTTTTTT growing hydro yet, so if this is wrong please tell me!!!)

    3. I set up an irrigation system from the root bin back down into the main tank using a 4 inch tall 3" wide pipe screwed in and sealed to the bottom of the root bin. The tube has 2" clearance from the top of the entire box, therefore I believe that the water will be successfully contained.

    4. I understand that just like when having fish, you need to oxygenate the water in the tank - So I put not only a high powered air pump 1 air stone in the water tank, but also in the root tank ( to oxygenate the water as it is being absorbed too ) Idk if this helps, once again, first hydro grow - just working off of common sense.

    5. Plants dont grow without some sort of food, nutes. Water doesnt have much nutes if thats all its getting, so I am going to have to get nutes.

    Here is where I am stuck - I never had good luck with nutes - I am an organic grower to the core, id rather rub dog shit all over my soil then to try and balance out chemical nutes.

    This is going to be my problem, because with hydro grows you need liquid nutes lol. Anybody have #1, a chart #2 a link to a site that describes hydro nutes and what levels to use? Anything of the sort?

    The reason I want to try this is to not only get rid of these damned fruit flies once and for all, but also because I hear hydroponics grows tend to be faster, healthier and have less of a harsh taste after curing.

    Anyway let me know, I will check back asap!

    Please no faggot trolls, I am new to hydro growing and I dont want to set up a 50000 sq ft hydro setup - just one plant - just one experiment - looking for advice on how to get this working properly.

    PS: I dont care if the hydro system is "half ass" because it is DIY, and if I decided to switch fully to hydroponics I would drop the cash to do it right lol this is jus my test....
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  • Quiet. The Neighbors Can Hear You (Sound Control Thread)

    there are many threads about odor control but one thing that is often overlooked is sound control. sound from buzzing ballasts, inline fans, wall-mounted fans, hydro pumps and/or many other things could be a contributing factor to someone finding out about your secret garden. worst part is that you wouldnt even know that they know! so if anyone has any ideas for sound control post them on here...
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  • Indoor growing with soil, question with watering / flushing.

    So i havent found a perfect description on how to water, most people care telling me with my 3 gallon pots what I should do run enough water through the pot to start to see run off, then leave it as is and let it get close to drying before doing it again, Also im going to feed nutes every other water. SO, my question!

    If im watering enough to see some run off every feeding, and im only running running a nuted feed then straight water then nuted, then straight water etc, whats the difference between a standard watering an actually the plant 2 weeks before harvesting if im always watering enough to see some run off?

    Any help regarding either question is greatly appreciated!
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  • costigan's Avatar
    started a topic Guide for Diagnosing Plant Problems

    Guide for Diagnosing Plant Problems

    I came across this neat little list that can probably help a lot of people out. If you like it check my post in the General area...I need some help!

    Quick Deficiency Guide

    Nitrogen: Entire plant is light green in color; lower leaves are yellow; growth is stunted....

    Phosphorous: Entire plant is bluish-green, often developing a red or purpleish cast; lower leaves may be yellow, drying to a greenish-brown to black color; growth may be stunted...

    Potassium: Leaves have a papery appearance; dead areas along the edges of leaves; growth is stunted...

    Magnesium: Lower leaves turn yellow along the tips and margin and between the veins; the lower leaves wilt...

    Calcium: Young stems and new leaves die...

    Zinc: Leaf tissue between the veins is lighter in color; yellowed; papery in appearance...

    Iron: Leaf tissue appears yellow, while the veins remain green...

    Copper: Leaf edges appear dark green or blue; leaf edges curl upward; young leaves permanently wilt...

    Sulfur: Young leaves turn pale green, while the older leaves remain green; plant is stunted and spindly...

    Mananese: Growth is stunted; lower leaves have a checkered pattern of yellow and green...

    Molybdenum: Leaves are stunted, pale green, and malformed...

    Boron: Young leaves are scorched at tips and margins...
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  • Marijuana plant deseases and other problems, here are the doctors
  • costigan's Avatar
    started a topic Plant Moisture Stress - Symptoms and Solutions

    Plant Moisture Stress - Symptoms and Solutions

    Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems -> “Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!”, or, “My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?” Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It's hard to tell *exactly* what the culprit is, and unfortunately the “solution” the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis-diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I’ll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.

    1. Over-fertilizing - the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant size, vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. Sometimes copper colored necrotic spots show in the leaf also. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (or in the root medium) compared to lower salinity levels found in the plant’s tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the ppm imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root’s epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips and hairs, which then creates another set of problems such as nutrient deficiencies. A note for the bio folks - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem. Leach (flush) your pots once in a while to get rid of excess salts.

    2. High Heat - the plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling (up or down) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll in and the grass will take on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling by supplying sufficient moisture for good plant health. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant located near HID lamps. The damaged leaf (usually) does not recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.

    3. High Light - yes, it’s true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, debris and dust collection on the leaf surface, twilight periods of early morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system. Keep in mind that all but equatorial material receive less light during flowering than during the vegetative stage.

    4. Overwatering - this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. IOW, the roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition causing root decline and root rot with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. <gasp!> Alot of times folks think the plant is not getting enough plant food (which it can't under such adverse conditions), they add more nutes for a "curative", and just add insult to injury.

    5. Underwatering - not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to soak the pot from the bottom up until moisture levels reach an even consistency throughout the medium especially with mixes that are heavy in peat. If severe, a little surfactant (liquid Ivory dish soap) added to the drench will help return the organics back to a normal moisture retentive state. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot or leaves droop before you water.
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  • costigan's Avatar
    started a topic 80 mgs of K while on an LSD run

    80 mgs of K while on an LSD run

    so last night I decided to eat 2 sugar cubes that my homie dropped some dank european swiss liquid LSD onto...

    great stuff I will tell you that!
    but anywho...

    I decided to lay out of line of Ketamine being about 80 mgs.
    snorted it up as fast as I could.
    slight burn. no sneezes...

    I sit there with a head full of acid just wondering if it is going to hit me.
    me mind is running. only waiting for the effects of the K to rush in.
    all of a sudden I felt like I was in a positive DMT experience.
    but it was nothing to compare to DMT itself...
    the open eye visuals were awesome LSD visuals but as soon as I closed my eyes.
    the LSD closed eye visuals mixed with the K closed eye visuals were crazy!
    i think I ALMOST K holes it.
    i could definitely tell I was pretty gone.
    my head was still conscious but it was slightly gone from my body.

    I could move but I didnt want to.
    my body felt euphoric but this was because my mind was slightly absent from it.
    the big thing that happened here was how much I thought.
    LSD + K is a strange, intense but easy combination.

    i compare this experience to a dmt experience because of the closed eye visuals mixed with the feeling kind of our of my body.
    but both dmt and this experience are completely different things.
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  • costigan's Avatar
    started a topic An Important Harm Reduction Message

    An Important Harm Reduction Message

    There is currently a worldwide epidemic of PMMA (paramethoxymethamphetamine) and PMA (paramethoxyamphetamine) laced MDMA and pills. It's been showing up all over the world in large quantities. Whether this is caused by impure precursors or intentional adulteration by manufacturers is unknown, and ultimately unimportant. The fact is that it's out there and based on the amount of it and the wide distribution I am assuming this is not from a single source.
    PMMA and PMA are very potent neurotoxins that can be fatal from a single dose.
    These substances do not react with or alter the results of a common Marquis reagent test. You need a Mandelin reagent to test for PMA/PMMA. They will give a reddish brown result. MDxx will give a dark bluish black/purplish black result as with Marquis reagent.
    Please, please use test kits on any pills or molly. The cost of a test kit is insignificant compared to the value of your life. If you have a group you often roll with consider splitting the cost of the test kit to make it even cheaper. There is no reason anyone should die because they wanted to roll.
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  • costigan's Avatar
    started a topic 1000w Backcross grow

    1000w Backcross grow

    This will be my third grow and I'd like to share it with the rollitup community the seeds for this grow are from various backcrosses I've made. I put them in paper towels to germinate on 5/18 the were all ready to be put in cups 1-3 days later for the first 11 days I used c.f.l.s til i got my new 400w bulb and they seem to love the added light there still getting water only until ready
    Blackgold & extra perlite
    400w M.H. for veg 1000w H.P.S. for flower
    Foxfarm grow big, tiger bloom, big bloom, bio bloom, and fat flower I will use different combos on different plants in flower to see which produces best results
    the pics are from 10-15 days oldest to newest just took the last two pics today all input and comments welcome
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  • costigan's Avatar
    started a topic My role as a Junior Mod. Nice to meet you all.

    My role as a Junior Mod. Nice to meet you all.

    i'm sticky-ing this thread temporarily just so folks get a chance to read it:

    hello there, my name is mellokitty and i've just been added to the moderator team of the "grow journal" section. some of you already know me, the majority of you, probably not.

    i just wanted to introduce myself, and explain my views on my role in this forum.

    while i would love to read and follow every single journal in this section, i simply don't have the time to do that. likely, i couldn't do that even if i didn't have any realworld responsibilities and could be on riu 24/7. i can barely keep track of all my conversations from my various subbed threads as it is.

    so, please don't expect that i'm going to "somehow know" whenever abuse is going on; if there's something that needs to be addressed, please PM me with the details and a link.

    if a member finds something offensive, said offensive post needs to be looked at by a mod, imo. BUT, as the only junior mod of the journal section so far, the only way i'm going to know is if that member reports it to me. i have a few extra drop-down menus on my screen now; i still can't read minds.

    i will only edit posts as requested to me by the OP of the post; if someone reports a post to me that isn't their own, i will look at it with these options in mind: delete, move to a more appropriate subforum, or leave as is. IF i receive a report that i don't feel is within the scope of moderation (ie. i don't think it's abusive or a violation), i'll defer the ultimate decision to the global mods.

    on that note, if you have a problem with me specifically, or my way of doing things, while i hope i can resolve the issue myself, please feel free at any time to bring it to the attention of the global mods.

    i cannot ban or hand out infractions.
    this includes spam. if you see spam, don't bother to respond to it; all it does is bump the spam to the top of the page, and no spammer is going to be offended by being called out for being a spammer. if it IS indeed human at all. please help me out by reporting it when you see it, it will be dealt with summarily the next time i log in.

    by and large i'll only be intervening as i'm asked to -- imo, the only way to maintain a community is to create and foster a feeling of community and i want to do my best to facilitate that.
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  • costigan's Avatar
    started a topic Organic Feeding 101.

    Organic Feeding 101.

    Organic feeding provides great results. A good organic grow starts with the soil. (look at subcool's section on that. he knows soil.) Im going to go over strictly what to do once the plant is in the dirt, and you still need to feed them something. Feeding the plants the right stuff is key to successful grows, and knowing what to feed and when, is needed for every grower.

    If your plant has some sort of issue, theres threads on that Guide to Nutrient Deficiency or Toxicity . this thread is gonna cover what do to AFTER you notice a deficiency, or just to keep a healthy garden. this will be using only organic nutrients. Ive purchased bottles of guano, and molasses and wondered... what now? well this is what now.

    **note: most of these teas/mixtures involve some mixing, but a lot of wait time. this is to fully let the properties of the substance combine with the water, and for microbial activity to start. Do not skip the waiting**

    Vegetative Teas:

    Worm humus:
    Origin:this mix is produced from the excrement of worms. they ingest organic material and you end up with this. The best quality of worm humus is going to be from the Californian worms.
    Provides: water soluble, and boosts microbes in the soil
    Preparation: In 5 liters of water, add in 400gr (about 2 cups) and let it sit for 2 days. stirring every so often to keep it well mixed and the water somewhat oxygenated.
    Applicationuring the watering, mixing 1 part of poo-juice with 3 parts water. you can add this in weekly.

    Blood Meal:
    Origin: After removing and drying blood from animals(usually in a slaughterhouse), it is ground up into a fine powder.
    Provides about 12-15%N, 1.2%P, and 1%k
    Preparation: in a container, add 1 part blood meal to 9 parts water. cover. over 1 week, open to burp the mix, and stir. after, filter with coffee strainer.
    Application: Applying usually only when N deficiency is noted, add to water to create a 10%-25% strength solution.

    Origin: CaSO4. Its a rock basically, you can find it naturally outdoors, or (probably easier) at a local plant shop.
    Provides: Activates healthy microbial activity. Corrects salinity (toxic salt levels). Provides sulfur, calcium and potassium. Regulates pH, and most importantly, helps in the absorption of N.
    Preparation: add 1 pound of gypsum powder (use a mortar and pistil if its too coarse) to the inside of a nylon stocking, or other fine screen material. place this inside a container with 5L of water. Cover. leave for 1-2 weeks, opening the container to stir briskly every few days.
    Application: Add it in with the water when pH is unstable, max 10% strength (so dilute it!). dilute it to 5% if mixing it with a N tea, and can be used weekly.

    Origin: obtained from dried, ground fish.
    Provides: 8%N, 7%P, trace elements.
    Preparation: mix 10% of this powder with 90% water in a container. leave it a week covered, and opening it to burp out the gas (dont breathe it in, smells). Filter at the end of the week.
    Application: Dilute the mix, 1part fishgoop with 10 parts water. add in weekly with the feedings, or when a N/P deficiency is noted.

    Bat Guano
    Origin: decomposed bat poo. preferably pasteurized (since bats can and do carry disease, like rabies!)
    Provides: High in N, but also contains P and trace elements. Fresher guano has higher N rating
    Preparation: 2 tablespoons of bat poo in 4 -5 liters of water. let sit for 1 week
    Application: mix the finished poo water, 1 part to 3 parts water. use every 2 weeks.

    Mixed Teas: This is ok for veg + flowering.

    Compost Tea (one of my favorites, as i use ground up male plants, or the sticks/stems/fan leaves of the harvested females for this)
    Origin: The easiest to come across commercially, or to make at home. this is used worldwide with a variety of ingredients.
    Provides: A big boost of microorganisms, helps feed the plants, and boosts a plant's immune system. NPK ratios vary depending the type of compost made.
    Preparation: Place a bunch of dead plants in a nylon stocking or screen, put that inside a bucket with about 15L of water, adding water as it evaporates (which means leave it uncovered). after 2 weeks, dump the inside of the bag/screen/stocking back with the rest of your compost pile outside or throw it away or whatever.
    Application: If you want to foliar feed this, filter it well, then 1:8 ratio of tea to water. otherwise, just add it in when watering, at a 1:5 ratio. use it every 2 weeks.

    Alfalfa Tea. (can also be used during flowering)
    Origin: your rabbit's food. this is ground up alfalfa, leaves, stems.
    Provides: 2.5%n, 5%p, and 2%k.
    Preparation: grabbing a nylon sock and filling with 1 part of the alfalfa, setting it into a bucket with 10 parts water. leave it for a week to create a strong tea.
    Application: use every 2 weeks, diluted 1part tea with 10 parts water.

    Origin: the business end of various animals.
    Provides: This really depends on what the animal ate, and what the animal is. Rough estimates are:
    Cows: .6%N-.3%P-.3%K
    horse: .6%N-.6%P-.4%k
    Rabbit: .5%N-1.2%P-.5%K
    Sheep: .8%N-.5%P-.4%K
    Pigs: .6%N-.6%P-.4%K
    Preparation: 1 part crap to 10 parts water, in a bucket. 2 weeks, stirring periodically. (again, this is better for the nylon stockings, otherwise your gonna have to filter it - yuck)
    Application: 1 part poop water to 1 part water. can be used every 2 weeks.

    Fruit tea, with or without Molasses.
    Origin: made with fermenting fruits. its recommended to add molasses for flowering.
    Provides: Rich in NPK, but also contains calcium and some other trace elements. Very rich in microbial activity. Using molasses adds a large amounts of carbs and can contribute to fungus (in high heat grows)
    Preparation: Cut fruits into small pieces. place in a container and cover them with molasses( OR cut up fruits, place into a ziploc bag with NO molasses or air) Let it sit for 2 weeks, opening it periodically to let out gases. filter.
    Application: 1 tablespoon of fruit rot juice (ew) to 1 liter of water. use it every 10 days.

    Flowering Teas:

    Banana Peel Tea.
    Origin: Bananas. Cheap to make. eat the banana, use the peels.
    Provides: Strong Potassium Boost. ideal for flowering.
    Preparation: after selecting 4 bananas, and eating the insides, place the 4 peels into a pot, with 4 cups of water (1L). You can also add in 2 tablespoons of molasses. Bring to a boil. let boil for 5 minutes. remove the peels. let cool. place in jars for storage.
    Application: mix this 1 part banana goop to 2 parts water. use every 2 weeks.

    Sea Weed
    Origin: algae or kelp, dried, ground into a powder.
    Provides: Lots of K, and trace elements, aminoacids, vitamins, hormones.
    Preparation: 100grams of algae powder + 2Liters of water, let sit overnight.
    Application: mix 1 part of sea weed juice to 3 parts water, and apply during waterings. can be used every watering.

    Paper Ash tea.
    Origin: This powder is obtained from burned paper. make sure the paper has no pigments (inks), glues, adhesives, or plastic covering. just plain paper. the cheaper the stuff, the better.
    Provides: 5% P and 2% K
    Preparation: Burn the paper fully. Ground up the ash. 100g of ash mixed with 2 L of water. let sit 10 days, then filter.
    Application: use every 15 days, mixed 1 part ash juice to 2 parts water.

    Origin: Bones, crushed, ground up.
    Provides: some N (3%?) and around 7% of P. high in calcium
    Preparation: cook in a pot for 10 minutes, 200grams of bonemeal with 6 liters of water, and 1/2 cup of baking soda. let cool, then remove any grease that may have formed at the top. filter the rest of the mix.
    Application: Use 1 part bone water to 3 parts water. use it at the start of the 12/12 cycle, or the start of flowering. will last the entire grow.
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  • Marijuana Growing with no chemicals
  • costigan's Avatar
    started a topic Vegan Organics Aka Veganics With Matt Rize

    Vegan Organics Aka Veganics With Matt Rize

    Welcome fellow (and future) vegan organic gardeners. I'll begin by saying I've been working on a revolutionary growing system with ganja guru Kyle Kushman. He calls it Kushman's Veganics and it includes all aspects of gardening.

    And secondly, I am not a vegan, nor do I promote a vegan diet for humans. I get my meat from the farmer's market, and it is spectacular, support local ranches and eff fast food. Sorry, I digress.

    It's all about the medicine. We are literally making medicine for sick people, often people with severely compromised immune systems. So getting rid of the animal sources removes the risk of any weird animal pathogens being consumed. Remember my beautiful canna-friends, sick people often consume the medicine raw as juice.

    It is also about reproducing nature. In the wild plants feed off of the soil. Soil is mostly broken down plants and some rocks. Very little of soil is of animal origin. So are you starting to see the idea? Broken down plants=good, rocks=okay in small amounts, animal origin=okay in very small amounts, chemical=no way!
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  • clarke1980's Avatar
    started a topic DMT Extraction

    DMT Extraction

    Wondering what an easy way for a DMT extraction would be.

    I've talked to a bunch of my buddies about and they're saying that you can just drink cough syrup and you'll get the DMT high?

    I sort of want to smoke it though, not drink it.
    So is there a way I can extract DMT from cough syrup?

    Thanks, additional information would be helpful
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  • clarke1980's Avatar
    started a topic Dmt


    I am currently running a tek and will post pictures step by step.

    Look for updates, they are coming tonight.
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  • taking plants that don't belong to you? DO NOT post here.

    I'm getting sick of seeing threads of people finding plants that don't belong to them and asking others about how potent they will be and blah blah blah.

    I say, read this sticky and realize these threads are not welcome here. there is almost no native cannabis in places close to civilization, so the likelyhood that you've stumbled upon wild plants is very very low.

    so if I see anymore of these threads of people taking plants that don't belong to them, or harvesting plants that don't belong to them, they will be deleted immediately.

    I don't think I will see any disagreement from my fellow mods and owners of the site.

    happy posting, stay high, grow your own plants.
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  • Growing outside in open air
  • costigan's Avatar
    started a topic FROST: general rules from experience....

    FROST: general rules from experience....

    Lots of strains of cannabis can handle a pretty strong frost. I've had plants handle frosts as low as 28 degrees F without killing the plant.

    Things to consider, some strains are more sensitive to frost than others, if they are in pots this can make them more sensitive.

    Sativa strains tend to be more sensitive to frost than Indicas. Indicas and Indica dominant hybrids are capable of handling frosts as low as 28F. but there have been reports of sativas handling frosts just as well.

    I'll leave this sticky open to discussion for other experienced users to post their experiences, I will compile it into this. I felt this was needed as this question gets asked a lot when a frost comes by.

    you can protect the plants if they are of manageable size or if you are handy enough to build a sturdy setup.

    this can be as basic as a pvc greenhouse with plastic wrapped around, or even sheets if properly secured to not touch the plants... or as large as a full car port with greenhouse grade plastic secured.

    how much the temperature rises the next day also tends to define how the plant deals with the frost. if it frosts and it rises up to 65 degrees+ with sun in the daytime, the plant is much more likely to take the frost and keep growing vs a plant that takes a hard frost and sees a 45 degree day with clouds....

    cooler temperatures (55-40 degrees F) will definitely bring out some purpling in some strains, and cause flowering to speed up, nights that dip into the 35F zone boost this even more, bringing out even more color.

    sorry for the organization of this thread, guess I'm too much of a stoner after all
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  • clarke1980's Avatar
    started a topic greenhouse/poly tunnel strain?

    greenhouse/poly tunnel strain?

    A friend of mine would like to grow in his poly tunnel this year, it's not really anything I know about being a hydro peep.
    There's about 6-7 months growing time (or until frost, which ever way you want to look at it)
    Any suggestions?
    (I'm already dreaming of sunbathing in there with 'em! )
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  • clarke1980's Avatar
    started a topic Valdez


    Smoked some great stuff in early 70s called Valdez. A friend went to school in DC and got it there..best stuff i've ever smoked. Anyone ever heard of it? Would like to duplicate.. any thoughts?
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  • Ideal-Air Commercial Air Conditioner - 21,000 BTU. Will This Work For My Situation??

    i suppose it may be overkill. but i can not find any other portable a/c units on the market that let you hood up the ports directly to your grow tent. i am running 2x1000w lights in a 4x8 tent. the temps are not that far off from being ideal, however the frame i am using to vent out the heat on my current a/c unit and exhaust is not 100% snug. and my room is not sealed. i need to figure out a way to seal my tent before i spend all the cash on this unit, i know this. however, i am renting and my not be able to seal my room up as i want or even as it should be. i also want to run any a/c unit i can find to blow cold air into my tent, AND into the room. i know if i can find something to shoot 65-70 air into my tent, i should be able to cool my lights enough to be in the 75 range almost consistently. i have a 10,000btu a/c currently and it is okay, but not the best. i also need to put it back into my veg room. i really can't make any high dollar decisions atm, but hopefully i will be able to soon.
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  • costigan's Avatar
    started a topic Replant Those Long Stretchy Stems ( Its Easy )

    Replant Those Long Stretchy Stems ( Its Easy )

    This is just to show you how easy it is to bury those long stretchy stems ,

    After you replant them make sure you lower your lights so they wont continue to stretch

    I do not have a pic of one of those seedlings with the long ass stem reaching for a light that's 2ft high

    But i got this one that i internally let slightly stretch a little , you can see the slight stretch at the bottom of the stem

    You do not want your soil wet when you do this

    its best for the soil to be dry so the extra soil will come off the roots easier

    After you take your plant out , GENTLY break lose the soil from around the roots

    After you got the excess soil off the roots , put some soil back in the bottom of your cup or pot

    you dont want to put your plant right in with the roots hitting the bottom of your cup because you dont want the chance for the roots to grow out the drain holes

    so put some soil in the bottom first then put your seedling back in

    position your seedling at desired height for your stem to be buried at

    i would bury all the way up to the Cotyledon leaves ,

    after your have replanted and buried your stem you can then give it just A LITTLE bit of water

    the part of the stem that you buried will eventually start to grow roots

    your plant will pretty much not go into shock at all from this

    just make sure your gentle when your braking the lose soil off the roots

    Like i said this is not a bad stretchy plant but the same principle applies with those long ass stretchy stems

    hope this helps you all that has the long stretchy seedling stem problem

    remember to lower your lights so they wont continue to stretch
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  • Vocabulary/Slang Terms (Updated With the Missing Terms)

    Since I noticed that in all 31 pages of the previous iteration of this thread were pretty much ALL repeat questions asked by people who couldn't bother to read what had already been asked. I went through the entire thread and found all the terms and acronyms that were missing or incorrect and fixed it. Only took me a couple hours and a couple bowls....but it was worth it. Now instead of asking the same questions OVER AND OVER AGAIN!!!! (IE; What does RO stand for??) They can read it on the initial post.
    As I frequent the site daily, feel free to send me any missing terms or acronyms and i'll edit the posts to include them. Hope this helps and GL GROWING
    {PS; The Credit for the original work, without which I would have had no basis in which to start, goes to MajorToke for his great work. Along with the others in the previous thread who answered 30 pages questions for people who could have skipped the question with 10 minutes of reading THANK YOU ALL!!! THIS IS YOUR WORK!}
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  • clarke1980's Avatar
    started a topic Big Bang Auto, Auto Assassin - 600w Grow

    Big Bang Auto, Auto Assassin - 600w Grow

    So this is my first grow with good im currently growing a bagseed right now and my plan is to veg it for as long as possible and lst, supercrop it, and take clones if it shows female pre flowers, just hoping i can cause im growing autos and keeping them on a 20/4 cycle so i will have to wait to flower the bagseed if it a female.
    Im Growing Auto Assassin in a 2.5 gallon pot, the big bang, and the bagseed are both in 4 gallon pots.
    They are all under a 600w mh/hps dimmable ballast. Im using the full line of general organics.

    The Assassin in The first Pic and she is in Day 2.

    The Big Bang is on Day 3.
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  • clarke1980's Avatar
    started a topic Got A Nice Set Up Going

    Got A Nice Set Up Going

    Right now I got 3x3x7 grow tent a 400watt hps easycool 8 reflector with enhanced bulb from growbright this thing definitely grows some beautiful plants. For ventilation right now I'm running two 8inch booster fan to exhaust the tent + light and 4 inch booster for intake, I'm upgrading to a 8 inch ventech inline fan 720 cfm on thursday Should be much better in my grow tent.. Not using the booster fans for ventilation anymore instead I will have passive intake with my new inline fan, temps right now in my tent are up in the 90's.. its summer time hope this new fan does the trick.

    I got my plants in a mix of of top soil, vermiculite, perlite, sphagnum peat moss, in smart pots and for nutes I got the advanced feeding program from xnutrients it is beautiful very simple and my plants love it. Right now I got my g13 blueberry gum in flower thats gonna be done in a week, in addition I germed two g13 cheese seeds two weeks ago thinking the blueberry gum would be done in the 50 days they advertised. So now my g13 cheese turns out 12/12 from seed should be interesting, never did 12/12 from seed.

    Pics are of the blueberry gum in flower and cheese at 1 week and 2 weeks old
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  • clarke1980's Avatar
    started a topic need help with drying

    need help with drying

    Hi guys. As I approach harvest i'm realizing i have no place to dry once cut. i
    I am limited on space and now after setting up my room i have no place to dry in a cool dark place. what are my alternatives. can something be made that works that can fit in the space i have or just find the best out of mostly bad places. I have a room approx. 8ft X 10ft. have a 5X5X7 ft. tent for flower and the closet has 24 hr light for veg. any help would be great
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